Today we say goodbye to Islay. But not before checking out a few more places. There’s a ton of distilleries on the island; we chose a couple in Port Ellen the next town over from Bowmore.
Lounge in the MachrieGame loungeLobby lounge
First stop: the post office in Port Ellen. Rudy mails my postcards for me.
Cute church in town Heading to the distilleries Lovely crofts for the landscape
We enjoyed our wee drams and carried on to a historical church and cross believed to be circa 1200’s! The Kildalton is a beautiful and serene setting for a reminder of the deep religious roots in the area.
Inside the ruins
After a short stroll around the ruins and cemetery we head to the ferry in Port Askaig Our ferry will take us back to the mainland. We have time for a pint and some crisps at the local hotel.
The mission for today was ultra relaxation for me and a windy golf game for Rudy. The sun was shining but it was super windy and chilly.
Rudy started out early so I lingered and had a relaxing bath before heading to breakfast before they closed. I had a nice plate of eggs Benedict and a latte before heading out for a walk to the beach. The barista laughed when I told him I was hoping to see Rudy on my walk. He said the course is huge! Your chances are very slim. Oh well ….
Breakfast spot – I was the last one thereThe “Wild Garden” – outdoor spa including hot tubs, sauna and cold plungeTee box
So I put on my gear and headed out into the wind. Wouldn’t you know after the first dune, there was Rudy. He was hitting an expert chip shot onto the green. I wasn’t fast enough to catch the pro chip, but I did manage to film the epic putt!
Golf action The pros
The walk to the beach was about 15 min but I battled the wind both ways. The beach is a 7 plus mile stretch of white sand and rugged backdrop. It’s wild and gorgeous. The grasses blow in the dunes and the waves crash violently into the shore. It’s desolate. Eerie, calming and beautiful. I’m so busy looking at the masterpiece in front of me I’m startled when I hear/feel a crunch underfoot: I’ve crushed a snail! Ugh. There are lots of them on the path. Poor fella.
Hotel from the beach view
Back at the Machrie I order a bottle of wine and plant myself in the lounge in front of the huge floor to ceiling window hoping that I will catch another glimpse of the golfers. I was not disappointed; they rode up in their cart and putted right in front of me. The sun’s glare was intense so pictures were dodgy. But Rudy looked up to see me waving at him.
Shortly after that he joined me in the lounge to share my wine. But not until he had a pint and tallied his score at the bar!
We lounged until dinner time and met another group of golfers from Whitby Ontario. Go figure. They had spent the 4 days previous at St Andrew’s. Nice.
Sticky toffee pudding Sunset (9:30 pm)
After dinner we night cap in the lounge and then head for bed. 💤
Today we spent a relaxing day roaming the area. After another delicious breakfast we head out to discover Jura.
Jura is another island directly north of Islay. It is reachable only by ferry. Our drive to the ferry port is about 30 minutes. It’s a non reserved crossing with multiple trips on the schedule. The ferry ride is about 7 min total. However it’s the loading process that was interesting. We had to back on to the ferry which simply pulls up onto shore. There is no “dock” so the entire time if backing on, the boat is bobbing in the rough water.
Once on board, jammed in like sardines by the ferry workers, we begin the choppy journey to the isle of Jura. There is only one road on the island and travels from the ferry port to almost the northern tip. George Orwell completed his famous 1984 novel here. Deer outnumber humans although we didn’t see any.
We head to the distillery for a wee dram tasting. Our host Graham at the distillery has Canadian connections in Mississauga and Oakville. Go figure. He tells us about his whisky with pride and we savour our samples in the quaint tasting room/shop.
GrahamBack on Islay
Back on Islay we head to the Bowmore Hotel where we have lunch.
The whisky selection
During lunch I talked to my dad. He seemed interested in the lunch menu but I could only show him our mostly devoured plates. I shared the steak pie with Rudy and it was delicious.
After lunch we head back to the hotel for a relaxing afternoon and evening.
As I’m recollecting the day, Rudy is snoozing. It was a super early start! Our ferry was scheduled to leave at 10 am; boarding by 9:30 am. It’s a 2 hour drive from our hotel – you do the math. And, to boot, I have a built in alarm when I have to get up early (everyone knows I’m not a morning person!) so I wake up ultra early – before the alarm – and then I’m up.
It’s a cold rainy morning. Figures. We gather our belongings and pick up the “breakfast to go” prepared by the hotel – four brown paper bags filled with goodies. And we set off for another ferry. Today we are heading to Islay which is pronounced: eye-la
The drive to the ferry is wet, windy and gorgeous. The views around every corner are stunning. Then the sun pops out!
Ferry views
We land on Islay and head for our lunch spot across the island.
The fish and chips were the best yet! The secret (according to the owner Andy) is beef tallow for frying oil. So yummy!! 😋
Off onto our respite place for the next 3 nights; rather looking forward to unpacking and not repacking in 12 hours! The Machrie Hotel in Port Ellen is a grand white structure amidst the dunes and the links. Rudy will be golfing here and it’s a mega course ranked in the top 75 in the world! The modern aesthetic combined with the untamed surroundings of the coastline make for a divergent impression.
What a whirlwind! The day started with a sunny wake up call and breakfast of poached eggs. For some reason everyone here understands what poached hard means so I’m loving the eggs! At breakfast we meet a couple from California who are also on a driving holiday. They are enjoying the scenery and the challenging roads, too. We shared a few mutual moments.
Last view of the bay in Portree
Since the sun is out we thought we’d try to see Old Man of Storr again; our view was obscured by weather on the first attempt. The volcanic rock (basalt) has created some interesting features.
Old Man of Storr
Now we are off to the southern tip of the Isle of Skye. We are booked on the ferry at 2 pm. So there’s time for a hike to The Fairy Pools Again this is interesting rock formations that have created grottos and water falls from the mountain runoff. The water is crystal clear but icy cold. However it doesn’t stop a few brave souls from taking a plunge. Brrr.
The hike to the pools Closer up view
Back on the road the scenery is beautiful huge rocky landscape, sheep grazing, pristine waters and unique foliage.
At the ferry we are loaded up quickly for a short jaunt to the mainland. We hit the road again with one destination in mind (in my case anyway): the viaduct featured in Harry Potter!
Hogwarts Express!
From there we have to book it to reach our destination for dinner in Oban. While scenic, the road is busy, lots of construction and very winding. It’s been a long day on the road. Finally we arrive at dinner 30 min late and they gave our table away. Luckily the manager squeezed us in. It’s remarkable how busy everything is here!
Hey! Put your phone down and eat! Interesting story about this “coliseum” – some dude was building it to house an artisan display and died before it was finished and it’s now a park area
Our accommodations for the night are at Knipoch Country House Hotel which is 15 past Oban. It would have been nice to check Oban out a bit more but time was limited. The hotel is part of a group of properties all country homes. This one was a hunting lodge and had been carefully updated to host guests overnight. They allow dogs and it was nice to meet a few!
Lounge off the lobby
We enjoy a wee dram and then hit the hay! I’m pooped long driving day. And tomorrow our wake up call is super early!
Last night we decided to make a late start and enjoy our king size beds and heated towel racks! So breakfast was at 9:30 am. The weather was cloudy with possible rain. Something we have alluded this trip. However, our eggs Benedict’s and french press coffee assuaged our weather blahs.
Our trek today is a loop around the north end of the island. We are in search of fuzzy cows, sheep local flavours and more gorgeous scenery. The Isle of Skye is a contrast in extremes. You can experience everything here and it attracts the seekers of wilderness by bike, hike, caravan (motor home) and car. By the time we get underway, the parking lot is bare. We are the last car.
Our first destination is Uig There is a cloudy horizon and a bit of drizzle. The roads to our target are single lane with passing points. There’s not enough room for cars to pass on the road; you have to use a cut out. Oncoming cars will flash their high beams to let you know they are letting you pass.
The roadway leads us around the top of the island to a scene we can’t ignore. At home you might find the odd kid’s kemonade stand , but in the highlands the kids weather the cold wind and sell homemade baked goods and duck eggs 😊
Coffee break at a pop up Local artisans Bikers from Switzerland 🇨🇭 Where the dinosaurs roamedOld man Storr in the mist Local guideGrazers Bit of rain in PortreeCruise ship in port makes for busy shops!Portree
Back at the hotel for a (some) nap. And for me it was a cozy afternoon by the fireplace with a whisky. Then we ordered grazing boards for dinner. An assortment of cheese, meats, bread, olives and wine 🔥
Ice cream for dessert
Tomorrow we leave the isle by ferry. Stay tuned 🏴
The morning started with a great breakfast. How is it that here in the UK I can ask for eggs poached hard and it’s no problem? Perfectly cooked eggs are a thing of beauty. After breakfast we move on for our trek cross country to the Isle of Skye. In order to get there, however, we cross some interesting terrains.
Canola First small town is Elgin
In Elgin there’s a lot of office buildings and an interesting downtown. We take a quick pop into Marks & Spencer (haven’t been in one since they closed in my home town) for …. Men’s underwear. And almond biscuits. And wine. And a t shirt. And socks. Love it!!
From there we venture into the most extravagant cashmere wool shop ever. It had the royal seal. But only the royals can afford it!! A pair of socks was 60£ … that’s $100. Crazy. It’s not only a store, there’s a mill attached and they make every piece in house. Quite extraordinary.
After Elgin we head further west towards Loch Ness via Inverness. Right around here our lucky charm for weather wears out and we get a quick sprinkle. Didn’t last long but we drove through it quickly.
There’s a few castles and other good visuals along route.
As we approach Loch Ness there’s tons of signs. Our gps takes us to the Loch Ness Experience. It’s kind of like Clifton Hill at Niagara Falls. Rudy refers to such places as a “trappe de touriste”. Quick glance and move on.
CenotaphNess River WestNess River EastThe dude(ette)
We decided to see the Loch Ness from another angle. So the route suggested Fort Augustus
It’s at the southern tip of the Loch Ness and slightly out of the crazy tourist zone. As we approach through the village, there are people, dogs, cars, boats, buses and you name it clogging the roads. So we drive straight through the village and head to the church. We figure: free parking and something to see. As luck would have it we end up at the lake and decide to have a light lunch and short break. It worked out perfectly as my dad was ready to chat.
ChurchFree parking
If you’ve ever read Ken Follets books Pillars of the Earth this building reminded us of that.
Loch NessRestaurant at Loch Ness
After lunch we head on to our final destination. The scenery is haw dropping. Every curve in the road brings more awe.
Changing things up a bit. We were in such a gorgeous place we decided to linger. A later wake up and breakfast followed by a stroll along the river. Wow.
Fly fishing lessons Fishing cottage View of the hotel from the trail Dog friendly cottages Gatehouse of the hotelA 10+ property
Off we go en route to the Scottish Highlands. Home of the famous games and Balmoral Castle and whisky! 🥃
Rural estate Miles per hour vs kms Amazing colours Ignore the trash and see the flowersYes. That’s snow. The brownish flora is heather. It’s purple in late summer.
We stop to stretch our legs in a small village called Braemar. There’s a lovely river running through and lovely shops. The highlight for me was a 5 star hotel called The Fife Arms We had a coffee and soaked in the ambiance of a truly unique property.
The town itself is the highest in Scotland and the Highland Games are held nearby each September. It’s a favourite place among the royals.
The hotel restaurant and pub The mascot Meeting roomOutdoor seating areaHotel lobbyLounge
There were other neat stores in town. Including a tartan shop.
I got heck for this. No photos allowed! War memorial CenotaphThey sell haggis!
There’s a few castles and cemeteries en route but we are on a time clock (since we lingered in the morning).
The terrain takes a rugged turn as we leave the park area. We are now in (surprisingly) ski country. There are a few lifts and trails in this remote area. The road was a challenge. Very narrow and like a roller coaster. Vegetation was sparse. No trees. High elevation (ear popping high) and very little traffic.
The hunting lodgeRustic castle The stones … outlander??
We are pushing to meet our distillery tour at Cardhu (owned by Johnny Walker).
Tasting roomKiss me at Cardhu
Our accommodations for the night is the Craigellachie Hotel on the Spey River. It’s a historic building with a pub, Michelin restaurant and whisky bar.
This morning the clouds greeted us as we ate breakfast in the Titanic Hotel. There is so much natural light in this property that you think the sun is shining. Our meal was quick and good because our ferry was leaving at 11:30 am! We are off to Scotland.
Titanic Museum
The pier area is vast in Belfast. There are commercial docks and buildings and cranes for new developments. It’s busy yet spread out. Very interesting to be sure. Once we get the car loaded, we program the gps to take us to the ferry port. Even though it’s nearby, there’s no easy way to get there. It’s a circuitous route and I manage to really annoy another driver. Happened to be a truck driver. There’s tons of round about here and I got in the wrong lane causing the truck to have to brake. He caught up with us at the next light and let me have it. He gestured to me to roll down the window so he could blast me, but I didn’t. So he yelled (to himself) until the light changed. Great way to start the day.
The ferry dock was already lining up cars. And the number of people travelling with dogs was amazing! The cars get loaded up and we make our way to the lounge to bide the 2.5 hr crossing time. The lounge had snacks and drinks (self serve) and a light lunch menu. The crossing of the North Channel was surprisingly smooth. And in no time we were arriving at the Scottish coast. Stena Line runs ferries all over.
Lovely bird poop view of the horizon Shoreline view
As soon as we hit land, the ferry unloaded. Everyone was ready to go and we drove off without a hitch.
The coastal route took us past Trump Turnberry Hotel and Golf. Green fees are exorbitant and the exotic cars in the lot were proof! The course is owned by the Trump Co. and its right on the water.
Turnberry Clubhouse
Shortly after that we pass the birthplace and museum honouring Bobby Burns
Just down the road from Bobby Burns is Culzean Castle. Unfortunately we arrive after closing but we drive into the grounds which are also a park. The gardens are spectacular.
From there we continue on to Stirling Castle. In order to reach it we drive through Glasgow. It’s a big city with lots of traffic and people.
As we leave Glasgow behind and head back into rural countryside, the lush landscapes are vast. Rolling hills of greenery and canola fields and green pastures dotted with cows or sheep. It’s a picturesque drive.
Then suddenly the castle looms in the distance.
Stirling Castle
Perched high on a hill (strategically located) it’s surrounded by village shops and restaurants. The quaint town has cobblestone and very narrow streets!
Once we reach the top of the hill, the castle is so much bigger than it seemed and includes a number of statues and a cemetery. Just for Rudy there was an ice cream truck in the parking lot, too.
The grounds are huge! Rudy’s new friend Mambo
Our final stop is our accommodation for the night Dunkeld House Hotel. Located just outside the village of Dunkeld, the boutique hotel is reached via a winding narrow road following alongside the Tay River. The property is breathtaking with birds of all kinds, grazing deer and gorgeous, lush gardens.
Whimsical garden feature – it’s a man in a boat fishing
It’s a lovely country inn with a view of the river and a giant stag to greet you in the courtyard. We check in and are offered a welcome shot of whisky. And we head to our room.
It’s already 7:30 pm and we head to the bar for a pre-dinner tipple. There’s a lot of whisky to choose from. I could be here a month and still not try them all!
The hotel newsletter
In the dining room we gave a view of the river. I order the local favourite: smoked salmon.
By the time we are done dinner it’s late. Time for bed!
There’s more to see and do tomorrow!
Again many thanks to Brenda, the navigator, for some great photos ♥️
Hanging around a bustling bar, you see all kinds of people. It’s easy to concoct a fictional scenario ….
The annual conference was an ordeal. Dee knew that going in. Department heads from divisions across the globe were meeting to garner favour with the board. No easy task given the board was made up of prickly family members mostly and some other large stakeholders. The annual conference was their way of getting together to outdo each other and make backroom deals for leverage. The matriarch, the widow Mrs Glenn, was old and word had it that she shifted her will based on her last martini and who made her feel the most special. She enjoyed watching her family members trip over each other to please her. And they unashamedly did going to great lengths to harness the chance at her approval and multi million dollar share. Some even thought billions if rumours could be verified.
Dee surveyed the room. The usual suspects were there. Her colleagues from local office as well as divisional vps from other cities. Pathetic, she thought, as martini glasses clinked with sparkling wine and other libations. Everyone was so superficial trying to tell the best stories and get drunk quicker. This was the blow out before the big presentations the next day. Dee was carefully sipping her Manhattan; no point in presenting with a hangover if she didn’t have to. It had been done before…
Her eye caught another up and coming marketing vp, Candace. Same job as Dee but different division. Dee noticed how Candace cozied up to the big players with ease and gracefully brushed their arms as she laughed (a little too loud?) at their jokes. Making small talk and fake compliments was never Dee’s forte. She relied on her skills on the job and performance results to make her impact. Her presentation tomorrow would make heads roll; including Candace. Dee had collaborated with finance to create a series of breakthroughs that would certainly get her a nod from partners.
Dee turned her attention from Candace to the small group of partners who had gathered a a corner table. You could see the wheels turning and the venom brewing. Mrs Glenn had not yet arrived but her presence was expected; she loved to make an entrance. Lying in wait, the small group was clearly gossiping and it was anyone’s guess who their target was. Dee stayed under the radar. Limit of two drinks. No gossip and never any inter office relationships! As far as she was concerned that was a death wish.
Dee glanced at what she called the rookie table. The newly minted vps who had something to prove. Each had brought something to the table but were clinging hard to the title and were desperate to make their next big move. The annual conference was their chance to keep the title or be farmed out to pasture. The name of the game was peak performance and many couldn’t handle the pressure. The other way to secure your place was (and only a very few had the knack) was to get the dirt. Yes. That’s right. Schmooze your way into someone’s good graces and find their Achilles heal. Then use it for personal gain. Dee found their methods entirely repulsive, but secretly admired their tenacity even if misguided.
Dee was almost ready for her second and final drink of the evening. She’d made enough small talk and hellos to the right people. Before things got out of hand as they always did at social work events, she would take her cocktail and work the room a final. Pressing the flesh to work in her favour before retiring to her room for a decent sleep after a final review of her masterpiece presentation.
The bar was busy so Dee bided her time and surveyed the crowd. Her eyes stopped as she watched the young bartender shaking a cocktail while laughing and chatting with a customer. Dee noticed that his uniform white shirt was slightly tight in all the right places showing his myriad of exotic tattoos. Was that an animal tooth on the thin leather strap around his neck? His thick black hair was slightly unkempt making his overall look a bit daring yet masculine and rugged.
See started to blush involuntarily. Only to be shaken from her reverie by an annoying colleague, Chad, from IT who, it seems, caught her red handed checking out the bartender. Chad comments to Dee about her apparent fascination with the young bartender. Dee brushes him off and says h she could be his mother. Get real.
Dee quickly gets to the front of the crowd and waits for service at the bar. As (bad?) luck would have it, bar hunk makes his way over to her. What are you having? Dee pushes her empty highball across the bar and asks for another Manhattan. Hunk looks her over and remarks that he pegged her as a dirty martini type. There’s that annoying blush again! Thanks, but I’m a Manhattan kind of gal. Yeah. Says hunk as he turns to reach for the appropriate bottles. You look like an uptown girl.
When Dee accepts her drink, her hand lightly grazes the hunk. She looks up to see him smile and say here’s a napkin. Unnerved Dee takes her drink and walks away. She’s not usually so off guard and, could it be butterflies?, nervous. Whoa. Dee retreats to a quiet corner to gather herself. She takes a massive gulp almost finishing the glass. As she sets down her drink, she notices handwriting on the napkin. What? Dee looks more closely. Chad approaches from behind. Hey what are drinking? Let me get you another. Caught entirely off base, Dee jumps in surprise. Easy there! Didn’t mean to scare ya!
Dee realized she needed a diversion and accepted Chads offer for a drink. What was she doing? This was not her usual professional self. Chad saunters off happy to be of service. Ugh. Lap dog. And Dee takes the opportunity to read the napkin.
It simply says: you have beautiful eyes and I’d like to see more … Rick 555-533-1367 Dee stuffs the napkin like it’s on fire into her clutch purse.
Dee is blushing like mad. The kid, Rick, really was young enough to be her kid if she had any. Seriously. She looks over to the bar to see Chad pointing at her and chatting with Rick. Oh no. Chad returns with the drink grinning from ear to ear. Here. Rick says he made this one special since you inhaled the last one so quick! Ha ha.
Dee takes the drink with thanks and immediate excuses herself to talk to someone she knows. Across the room. In Portugal. Anywhere away from Chad. She glides to a far off table and says hi to her counterpart from Boston. While stealing quick peeks at the bar her eyes lock with Rick. She looks away quickly and then back again. He’s staring at her!
Dee puts down her drink and walks away with a mumbled apology about needing the ladies. As she gathers her thoughts and heads for the elevators to her room, she is startled by a hand on her arm. Dee spins around ready to give Chad a swift brush off. But when she turns, she is face to face with Rick.
This can’t be happening. He’s throwing her off her game. She’s here to make her presentation and leave. With a bonus and a bigger office if she’s lucky.
I meant what I said. And you’re even more beautiful up close. I’m off at 10 pm. Call me. With a smile to melt the coldest heart, Rick walks away. Leaving Dee in giddy shock. Having not felt like this since highschool, Dee stumbles into the elevator. When the elevator door closes, Dee is alone. Retrieving the napkin from her purse she chides herself for her lack of composure and immaturity.
But she can’t help thinking about Rick. Was she crazy? If she contacted him what would be the harm? This wasn’t her town. No one would know. Her mind races as she makes her way into her room. Maybe just this once…..