The Festive Season in Europe: Day 2

Today we spent the day in Zurich. Our Viking tour has officially started. Breakfast is served in the hotel. I’m reminded of my mom as there is an assortment of eggs, cold cuts, cheese, pickles!, and pretzels. It’s early: 7:30 am and we are meeting our tour at 8:20. The Viking rep hands out listening devices which we keep until the end of the trip.

The tour starts with a boat cruise on Lake Zürich. It’s a sunny but chilly day. We are hopeful to see the mountains, but much like the Rockies, conditions have to be ideal. So far the misty fog lingers up high. The boat cruise is approximately 1 hour. We sit at a table with a couple from Georgia.

After the cruise, we start a walking tour of the medieval section of Zürich with our guide. She’s from Taiwan, but married a Swiss and speaks several languages. Her English is excellent.

The first thing on the tour, Rudy discovers the toilets. He’s always called it the Pissoir. He’s delighted to be validated. Toilets here are pay if you wish. You need Swiss franc coins.
The view from the bridge crossing the Rhine is beautiful.
Yes. I have a cold sore. In spite of meds and salves it’s still visible. But luckily not a crater.
Churches are abundant and this one was commissioned by Charlemagne.
The tallest spire
The flag of Zürich is blue and white signifying the water and the snow capped mountains.
There is mostly no traffic in the old town (Aldstatt) and Christmas decor is everywhere.
The old town was originally settled by Romans as a walled city strategically located overlooking the area. This is a replica of a tombstone of a small child dating back to 300 ad.
To reach the top of the walled area we must climb a steep area by cobbled street and stairs. In olden times the road would be used by horses etc so many of the homes had built in shoe scrapers at their door. Only residents can drive in this area.
The view from the top is amazing
Rudy and the wall.

We make our way back down. The pole with steps is for cats!! they can climb out the apartment window and roam the streets 💗

Decor is beautiful
The clock tower has a small window which is the fire watchers residence. His job was to observe the city and be on the lookout for fires (the biggest threat to medieval buildings)
A typical chocolatier. The method of melting chocolate was created by Rudolf Lindt and they added extra ingredients to stretch the product because cocoa was expensive.
Make a wish.
I’m on the nice list 🎅🏼

A few more interesting tidbits from the tour: Zürich university is where Albert Einstein studied. There are over 20 Nobel prize winners from the university. You take your undergrad degree in German, but if you pursue a Masters or Doctorate it’s in English.

Charlemagne built a church for his two daughters.

There’s a women’s only swimming area on the Rhine. It includes a change house with washrooms, a sun deck and access to the water. Tops are optional so interested people can observe from the other bank of the river.

Zürich has 26 Kantons (districts). Each has its own government so laws vary in each one. Voting is held often to decide on various issues. If you can get 100K signatures in favour of something, it will be voted on.

The transit system is on the honour basis. There are machines everywhere to purchase tickets. Machines will allow you to choose a language. Then you purchase a ticket. From time to time a transit agent will ask to see your ticket.

There are no homeless. They are taken to a shelter or hospital for treatment.

There are thousands of secret bunkers in the country in case of nuclear war. In the event of an invasion, there are explosives buried around the perimeter of the country that will implode as needed making entry by land impossible.

Crime is virtually non-existent.

After the walking tour, we return to the hotel to freshen up (Rudy needs a nap). Later in the afternoon we take the tram to the main train station where there is a Christmas market and the main shopping street. Bahnhof Strasse is jam packed with shoppers taking advantage of the Sunday sales (normally Sunday is sacred; you can’t even make any noise!). Smoking is available anywhere outdoors and there are ashtrays everywhere. And tons of dogs! If you have a dog you can buy an annual transit pass for them. 💗

Everyone is respectful and helpful. And they all speak English.

Every market has a tree. This is the Lindt tree at the Bahnhof market. It’s huge and covered with chocolate balls 🇨🇭
Happy to take a break from the hectic markets. It’s the first day of advent and shops are open (they are usually closed on Sundays) – we nosh on sausages with crispy buns and frites with mayo. And refresh with local draft beer. I think I’m in food heaven!
The singing tree was the highlight of the market. Local schools take turns singing Christmas carols. Interestingly they sing in English!
It’s a magical place; Christmas is everywhere 🎄

We return to the hotel for an early night as 6:30 am is around the corner!

See you tomorrow … 🍻

The Festive Season in Europe: Day 1

We left on November 28 and arrived in Zürich in the early evening Nov 29. The flights were on time and smooth, but we had to spend a few hours in London Gatwick in between flights. It wasn’t enough time to do any sightseeing and too much time to hang out. I was able to book lounge access for 3 hours prior to flight which was very civilized and I highly recommend it. The day was super sunny. Once you clear security, en route to the lounge, you pass through an incredible mall. You name it and they have it. Including Marks and Spencer’s (who I miss in Canada!).

Upon arrival in Zürich we were picked up by a transfer to take us to our hotel: Renaissance Tower Zürich

It’s located in the gentrified techno district near the Hardbrüke Train Station. Before we head to the room, we take a quick break in the lounge.

Shortly after our happy hour, we hit the hay. Our room is a spacious and comfortable king bedroom with an oversized bathroom. Simple and elegant.

The following morning we arranged to meet my cousin in a nearby German town called Konstance. She provided us with instructions for taking the train. The weather was full, gray and chilly. We walked to the train station and hopped on; we had to change trains in Winterthur which is a quaint town. Then we were caught by surprise: the station in Konstance was having technical problems and we couldn’t reach it. Instead we had to disembark in Kreutzlingen (the last stop in Switzerland). What we didn’t realize is that the two towns are connected. When the train representative told us to walk to Konstance we were a bit confused. But I messaged my cousin and told her (she already knew as they were meeting us at the station!); we set a meeting place and walked. We met in a local mall called Lago and on the top floor is a very cool outdoor patio; we have a coffee and laugh about the train. Nothing like an unexpected adventure to start the day.

After our quick coffees we venture out to visit the medieval city. Along the way, my cousin and her husband tell us local history. The most fascinating part is that Konstance was spared bombing during the war because of its proximity to neutral Switzerland. They kept their lights on at night so the bombers thought they were Swiss. So fortunately the old buildings remained intact!

The four of us in front of the cathedral. My cousin shared that she is very familiar with churches because her father took the family to see churches whilst in holiday because the entry is free. 🤣

What you don’t see in the picture in front of the church is a small glass structure that encloses an ancient wall from Roman times (400 ad); the wall was discovered as they were excavating around the church. Of course the renovations stopped and the ancient wall was enshrined.

Buildings from the medieval times date back centuries and often have the year of build indicated on them. Some have signs of animals which was a way in those days of identifying them.

After the medieval section of the city, we venture to the Christmas Market. While there we enjoy the mandatory sausage (I had my very favourite Weiß wurst with Senf which is mustard) and then Glühwein which is a spicy mulled hot wine. The market is huge and packed full of people.

My cousin explained that Switzerland is super pricey compared to Germany so Swiss people flock to Konstance for the bargains. She said she had never seen it so busy!

Every market has a big Christmas tree 🎄
A Feurzangen Bowle is literally translated to Fire Tong Bowl. A sugar cone is doused in high proof rum and placed on a tong over a bowl of spiced wine. The sugar is then lit on fire and the alcohol burns blue flames while the sugar melts and drips into the bowl of wine. I think it should be everyone’s tradition to lighten the holiday mood 🎅🏼
Lebkuchen is traditional German gingerbread and a staple at Christmas

The market is adjacent to the pier where my cousin shows us the famous sculpture of a prostitute holding up her hands. In one hand sits the pope and in the other the king. The prostitution is dressed in working garb and has huge boobs! Very scandalous.

Our day ends in Radolfzell where my cousin lives and we enjoy a Raclette supper with her teenage kids.

She drives us back to the train station where we hop on and head back to Zürich. It’s an hour away. We are glad to hit the sack when we arrive at 9:30 pm.

It’s the Season to be Jolly!

For many years the annual holiday house tours was a girls weekend getaway event. We would pile into our townhouse (girls do not travel light!) and the kitchen would fill up with snacks and drinks while everyone staked out their space for the next few days. It was a frenzy that included dining in, dining out, shopping, spa time, gossip (natch) and touring the beautiful homes decked out for the holidays. However, once retirement occurred, we were not around for the annual tour which takes place in late November. I missed it.

This year, when our schedule brought us back to Georgian Bay for a couple of weeks, it was by sheer luck that the tours were happening and I could go again. The girls weekend wasn’t going to take place, but I invited a local friend to spend the day with me. She had never been on a holiday house tour before, but her and her husband are building a new home in the area and this was a great opportunity for her to scope out decorating ideas.

Every year the organizers of the tour offer seasonal attractions such as workshops, fashion shows, raffles and a holiday market. This years venue was the Alpine Ski Club off Arrowhead Road in Blue Mountains. With tons of parking and a gorgeous new clubhouse, the Alpine was the ideal setting. The program started at 9 am, but we set off at 10 am and arrived to a jam packed and bustling ski club.

The club was decorated in full holiday splendour and the aromas from the market added to the festive mood. People were everywhere! The market spanned two floors and vendors of all varieties were ready to greet us. The registration table was busy too as the event was a sell out. What a tremendous opportunity to showcase local businesses and artisans while supporting a wonderful charity. The work and effort poured into the project are evident throughout and everyone is touched by the Christmas spirit.

There are seven local homes decorated by local designers and decked out by retailers. We are given a wrist bracelet at check in and this is our entry to the homes. The tour is entirely self-guided and the homes down from Creemore to Thornbury. We decide to start furthest away in Creemore. With the market being super busy at the ski club we chose to return later in the day when we circle back through.

The first home in Creemore is an updated century home. As we pull up, it is clearly Christmas here! The garlands and lights and greenery and decorations are splendid. We admire the outdoor decor but the showstopper inside was amazing. We enter the side door into the kitchen which is an updated space that exudes classy comfort. The adjacent living room is filled with an eclectic mix of old and new. And it works beautifully.

The owner of the home, and designer (Dovetail Interiors) Trish is on hand in the great room. Trish lets us know that the house belonged to the school bus driver who drove her to school each day! This light filled addition to the original home boasts abundant natural light, a fireplace, cozy furnishings and a wet bar. You can easily imagine yourself curling up with the fire glowing as the wintry weather swirls outside. From here we are ushered into a modern breezeway and then into the outdoor space. The outdoor space is equally well decorated and the fire pit with a crackling blaze is the icing. We are officially on the tour and the bar is set very high.

From Creemore we head to the next home on our list in Nottawa. The rural settings add to the festive mood. The outdoor curb appeal sets the stage for the wonders inside. The next home in Collingwood is a waterfront property where the designer incorporates the homeowners Santa collection in her decorating theme. In this home the table is set for a large family dinner party; it’s exquisite.

The final homes are in Blue Mountains and Thornbury. The homes are newer and nothing short of spectacular! The properties are beautifully decorated and one of the homes boasted a grand piano with a live player! Even the children got in on the fun. In one home they hid 3 elves on the shelf and dared you to find them. There was whimsy, tradition, modern and classical touches. In all, a festive feast for the senses.

To add even more delights, some of the homes offered local treats such as egg nog, cider, cookies and even no bake peanut butter balls from Press Market. The addition of these tasty goodies made the homes smell like the holidays.

We finished up back at the ski club where we spent an hour perusing the interesting wares. The selection was incredible and there was something for everyone and every budget. The artisans were more than pleased to talk about their products and shared information happily. A few of the vendors had kids helping out and that was so special. Kids exude the magic of the season in such an honest and pure way – it’s joyful!

Everyone got a chance to vote on their favourite home. A completely tough decision as each was unique and interesting in its own way. And with that, another tour is wrapped up. So until next year, Merry Christmas! And May the joys of the season fill your hearts. 🎅🏼

Grey Cup Reunion: 1974

It’s the 50th anniversary of the Montreal Alouettes Grey Cup win in 1974. The team has been reunited to celebrate the amazing milestone. Of course, not all alumni are returning for the celebration. Some are geographically isolated as far away as Hawaii and others are watching from another realm. It’s an event for the record books as fans watch the current team and meet their gridiron heroes from yesteryear.

Organizers have arranged an alumni meet and greet on the terrace of the Delta Hotel in downtown Montreal. Players, trainers, managers and guests are invited to toast the team from 1974. The energy in the air is amazing as teammates reunite and share their stories. It’s a pleasure to watch the expressions of joy and laughter as memories unfold. Mostly the alumni are retired and enjoying their golden years; some from coaching (Wally Buono) some from industry and among them are a senator (Larry Smith) and public figure (Peter DallaRiva).

All are transported back to their playing days when they are presented with authentic retro jerseys. And it’s interesting to note that most jerseys are not sized to 1974 levels; everyone has taken on a new shape.

The next day is game day and the alumni are asked to sign autographs before the game. All were taken aback to see the line ups for the autograph session. Fans were provided with retro postcards depicting the team. But most brought their own items to be signed including hats, jerseys, footballs and flags. The line up stretched for hours and did not wane. The alumni were kept busy the entire time.

Meanwhile, in the alumni vip tent, we were able to watch the pregame warm ups and see the 1974 team honoured on the jumbotron. The stadium was filling up to capacity. When the alumni returned to the tent it was just in time to sing Oh Canada in English and French. The game started and the fans were loud! The noise of air horns and vuvuzelas was deafening. The stadium literally hummed with excitement and sounds.

Just before half time the alumni were rounded up to head to the field alongside the Grey Cup trophy. The noise on the field was even more intense than in the stands. Hard to hear yourself think! And the lights were so bright! What a rush!!

Each alumni was welcomed onto the red carpet to gather on the field. The crowd was cheering wildly and clapping with enthusiasm. As we walked back to the tent we heard someone calling “Rudy”! Looking into the seating areas we spotted Liam Quinn. How awesome that he was there for this amazing opportunity to honour the 1974 team as his dad was such a big part of it all.

Back in the tent we watch the rest of the game and are thrilled that Montreal has pulled ahead and clinched a win. After the game the alumni is again invited to the field where fans are allowed to interact with players old and new. It’s a pleasure to watch the players enjoy their wins with fans.

A well organized and wonderful event. Kudos to the team responsible. Thanks to the alumni who participated. And thanks to Rudy for letting me be a part of it 🏈💗🏈

Trainer John, Rudy and Gary Chown as we enter the terrace
Signing the flag for Rudy’s friend Benny
Rudy and Ed George
Rudy and Larry Smith
Rudy, Peter DallaRiva, Sonny Wade and team CEO Mark Weitman
The new old jersey
Signing Phil Price’s jersey
Rudy and Doug Smith
The Team
Rings
Rudy and Wally Buono
Autograph session
Autograph session
Jumbotron
Rudy and Skip Eamon
Getting ready for the presentation
The Grey Cup arrives
The presentation at half time
Rudy and the Grey Cup
Post Game
Autographs
More autographs
The old meet the new
Red Batty and us
Walking off the field

Ghent, Belgium 🇧🇪

Our final port day to was spent in Ghent about an hours drive from Zeebrugge (Bruges is the closest city but since we have been there previously we decided to try Ghent). The port itself is a bustling commercial zone with literally thousands of new cars. According to our guide, it’s the biggest shipping port of autos in the world. There were massive parking lots filled to capacity! There were several huge windmills which apparently charge the EVs in the port. Additionally there were several other commercial ships and tons of containers. It’s definitely a busy place full of commercial activities.

Our tour bus takes us on the 60 minute drive past many industrial parks as well as open fields. Until we finally make our way to Ghent. Very much like Bruges, Ghent is a canal city and several of the bigger canals around the cities actually end up at the port or other European ports. The area is known as Flanders (one of 9 provinces). Brussels is the capital city of Belgium and also is the capital city of the European Union. It’s where all European leaders meet to discuss their countries and their interests. The language in Belgium is Flemish although french and German are also spoken. But french is the predominant language. One of the things I noticed looking out the bus window was the random patches of red poppies growing on the roadside. Made me think of the famous poem by John Mccrae: in Flanders Fields. I also kept an eye out for Mollys kin as she was a Bouvier de Flanders. No luck there.

Upon arrival in Ghent our bus pulls alongside a canal and we hop off only to cross the street and hop on our tour boat. Our guide, a lively and animated local, was steering the boat and telling us things nonstop over a microphone. There are dozens of canals that cross and interlink; many by bridges and smaller waterways. Alongside the canals are homes, buildings of various age and size, houseboats, businesses and churches. The architecture is really unique and amazing. Flora is abundant and lush.

In the town centre we are able to hop off the boat and explore the shops. I can’t get over how busy it is. Tourists and locals (many on bicycles) swarm the shops and eateries. There’s a number of school groups as well. The canals are busy with boat traffic. It’s a busy town!

As we pass a Marriott Hotel adjacent to the canal, Rudy suggests we could travel differently the next time. In fact there’s a few interesting places around town to stay. Otherwise there are many chocolate shops and cafes as well as other neat shops. I wish we had more time and luggage space!

Once we are back on the boat our captain/guide has erected the canopy tops since it’s threatening rain. However, in order to navigate under the bridges (there’s a lot!) he uses an automatic lowering switch and those sitting near the metal spikes have to duck. A cool system. It’s been interesting to see how buildings abut the canals and have withstood the test if time on the bricks. Nothing like the icy waves that pound the shores of Georgian Bay.

In all a lovely day (despite the weather) to see a splendid city.

One of the many car lots at the port
All aboard
We shove off
Lots of updating and building
Houseboats park along the canal in wider areas
There’s also power boats
On either side of the canal there’s a diver sculpture. One is male and the other female. There’s a supposed love story in there …

The following are random photos of the buildings and canal views

The old courthouse
Front of courthouse

Cherbourg France 🇫🇷

Today we docked in Cherbourg harbour in the Normandy Region. Another quaint seaside town with an abundance of history and charm. Weather was 67F and slightly overcast with the sun trying to peek through.

The boat docking area is unique itself as it was another Titanic stop and a key strategic military point during WWII. It’s within an easy drive or train ride to the famous beaches of Normandy and other historical war sites. As you disembark into the terminal you see the huge building that once housed the train and port facilities. The train is no longer there, and now cruise ships dock rather than the large ships transporting immigrants. They’ve converted the back of the building into an amazing water themed museum which we visited.

At the outside of the building only cruise passengers and staff are allowed to catch a special bus into town. The area is otherwise restricted to visitors. There’s a small souvenirs shop and welcome sign.

Our plan was to catch the bus into town then return to enter the museum. But due to pending rain we decided to reverse our plan and see the museum first. it is adjacent to the boat terminal. On our France trip in 2022 we visited the Normandy war sites, so this time we decided to stay local.

The Sea Museum – Cite de la Mer features three sections: atomic submarine operations and tour of an actual nuclear submarine, Titanic interactive and displays and finally the eco ocean themed area. We only had time for two so we chose the Titanic and sub areas. They did not disappoint.

We started with the Titanic exhibits. It’s a large interactive walk through with artifacts, staged examples, and a minute by minute enactment of the final three days of the fateful voyage. When you enter, there’s a viewing area with a floor to ceiling panoramic bow view of the Atlantic Ocean as someone on the front of the ship would have seen. The screen intermittently shows quotes of passengers and crew. It also shows a countdown timer. It’s eerie how calm the water was and how clear the skies were. Then, on April 14 the officers notice more icebergs which is by all accounts rare for that late in the spring. Late that night, a huge iceberg appears. You watch how the ship attempts to turn but is not successful and it shudders as it rams the massive ice formation twice as it rebounds. Thereafter, you hear creaking, groaning and frantic Morse code messages to nearby vessels. Finally, in the early morning hours of April 15, the unthinkable occurs and the behemoth ship sinks. Some passengers were able to escape in life boats but most perished. It was a sobering exhibit.

Moving on there were reenactment clips of survivors detailing the escape experience. Recounting how the lifeboats were full and those in the water trying to climb aboard were beat down by oars, those on board fearful that the boat would capsize. Horror stories of floating debris and shocked survivors freezing and rowing until they were finally rescued by the Carpathia.

In another exhibit you can try your skills at Morse code. There’s a signal switch used to tap out messages. It was the only means of communication at that time.

As you walk from area to area there are newspaper clippings. The Titanic was the news of the day both before and after it sank. There is a hologram of the recreation facility featuring a stationary bike and rowing machines. There’s displays of the accommodations on board: one side shows the cabins and the other a lifelike view from the room moving waves and all. One of the saddest parts was the area showing the recovered items and the underwater scenes.

The entire tour was very well done with clever and thoughtful scenes to take you back to the time period.

The next area was the submarine section. There were displays of more modern submersibles, but the main attraction was the real nuclear sub. Before you got to that part of the museum, you could learn about sun operations and try your skills with mapping positions underwater and even operating a sub mission (I flunked). A very useful start to the final piece: touring an actual nuclear sub. You are given a small phone on a strap. There are several languages available to choose from. You walk outside to the starting point and press 1 on the phone and listen. Suddenly a Captain’s voice starts the tour. And you go down the stairs to enter the sub.

We’ve all seen movies about submarines, but this real life version was super interesting. The captain leads you through all areas of the sun including the nuclear power area, officer’s quarters, crew quarters, heads, mess, engine room, operations room, infirmary, missile storage and launch centre, periscope and communications facilities and water supply systems. To make it more realistic, there were typical sounds and lights projected along the way. Totally cool.

This museum, in my view, is a must see. We could have spent way more time there but also wanted to see a bit of town. And by the time we emerged from the museum it was sunny and warm.

We catch the bus into town and there are a few drop off spots. It’s not a huge area. There’s a lovely marina and beautiful architecture both historical and modern. Somehow the blend works very well. We stop for a latte and break. Do a big of shopping and return by bus to the cruise ship.

Au revoir, Cherbourg! A la prochaine 💗

Cherbourg from our balcony
Cherbourg from the dining room
Another dining room view
Welcome in the terminal
Museum starts
The radio room
Entering the sub museum
It’s huge
Propellers
Engine operations panels
Down the hatch
Missiles
Missiles up close
So huge
Other submersibles
Cherbourg
The cafe was cute and their stuffed bear mascots were watching us
A cool store we found called Normal
Cherbourg marina area and fishing nets
Harbour view

Falmouth Cornwall England 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

Today we arrived in Falmouth, a quaint harbour town of approximately 21,000 people. It’s also the world’s third deepest port/harbour. As deep as it may be, Falmouth greeted us to a very low tide. Our ship anchored in the outer harbour and tenders were arranged to take passengers ashore.

Originally we had a ship excursion arranged to go to Land’s End, a tiny attraction at the southernmost tip of England. After the unpleasant tour organization encounter (the tour was great but the logistics were not) the day prior, we chose to cancel that excursion in favour of a private tour to go whale watching at 1 pm. The timing and less bustle suited us better we thought.

With no rush to disembark, we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast. We kept hearing the announcements for the tenders and then met a fellow at breakfast who advised that, similar to yesterday, you had to pick up a tender ticket and then wait with your party until you were called. He was not happy as this was not disclosed until he arrived at the tender ticket desk. We knew exactly how he felt.

So we are our breakfast in no hurry. Returned to our cabin to pack our things and made our way to the elevator. Having observed the other guests on board over the past few days we knew a few things to be true: they are by and large early birds who can’t wait for the breakfast lines to open but before they lay siege to the food (read trough) they scurry about and save chairs in every corner of the ship; then, once they get their fill they return to collect the random book or bag they’ve thrown on the chair to “save” it and embark on the next event (bingo, shopping, trivia etc) – that’s when we knew to find a seat. In the case of the ports of call, you can be sure the same folks have secured their tickets and are first in line to get a tender etc. To avoid the hassle we booked later events and simply out-waited them. So today, by the time we were ready to leave it was 10 am. No more tender tickets; simply head on down.

The tenders were the ships rescue boats and we climbed on board easily. The ride into shore was unexpectedly long since we were anchored so far out. The sun was shining and it was a great trip. Once on shore we looked for a convenience store to pick up extra water (another lesson from the day prior), post cards for me and lozenges for Rudy. We ambled into town (about 20 min or so) and it was so warm and lovely at 11:30 am we were ready to take a layer off! Rudy met a “neighbourhood ranger” (read friendly copper) who pointed us to the pier where our whale boat would be. He also recommended a pub for a quick pint. It was a welcomed treat.

Whilst enjoying a brew in the sun (I should add that beer is not served cold – my dad would be thrilled – so it wasn’t the cooling refreshment we were hankering) another couple joined us (they had coffee – ha!); they were on holiday from Bristol. We struck up a lively chat about cruises and trips (they’ve been all over!) and they were also going whale watching! So after our nice chat it was time to head to the pier. It was really weird to see boats in the mud of low tide. At the pier two young men in fishermen type overalls came up; they were Fraser and George our tour guides and skippers.

In total there were 8 of us going on board and we each needed to where a life jacket at all times. I was just about to wrinkle my nose anticipating the smell, but these were new, state of the art things that inflate automatically when they hit water. So they were flat and comfortable even though one of the straps was between your legs (to keep the jacket from riding up in the water). The vessel was also interesting in that it was an open deck hard bottom inflatable. The seats for us were fastened to the floor and you sat on them (straddled) like a saddle. All aboard!

George tells us his plan for finding whales and other wildlife, but we have no luck. After riding around the outer harbour for almost 2 hours we see nothing more than a few birds. Oh well. I enjoyed the ride immensely; Rudy not so much. In spite of the warm sun ashore, the wind was cold. Did I say wind?? It was very very very windy. And George was in high gear determined to satisfy his guests. There was also salty sprays. Lots of them. Karen (my new friend from Bristol) and I were loving every minute even with the disappointment of no whales. We joked that we would be walking like cowboys on shore! We weren’t wrong.

I had the feeling that Karen and David wanted our company for a bit longer but Rudy was having none of that. Plus the beer was weighing on his bladder. We returned back to the pub in search of a toilet, beer and fish and chips in that order. Rudy found the toilets and let me know they were new and perfectly clean (he knows my washroom hang ups). Regardless I was ok to wait. He went to the bar to order, but was told the kitchen was closed until dinner time. So no fish and chips. Too bad! I was looking forward. So we settled for another glass of tepid beer and I wrote out my postcards. Checking on line I discover that the convenience store was also the post office. We would pass right by on our way back to the tender docks and I could post the cards. In the mean time a very nice woman and her labradoodle Alba; she let us pet and feed Alba treats (they keep a jar of treats next to the water bowls inside the pub next to the condiments!).

Off we went for the walk back. On the way we both were stunned at the same thing: everyone has a dog. They were literally everywhere! And I noticed a few establishments used their outdoor signs to proclaim “dog friendly” rather than the days special. Definitely my kind of place.

Back at the convenience store, Rudy goes in to post the cards. He comes out shortly after with the cards in hand. The post office closed at 2 pm. So there! Back at the pier the cruise welcome tent is being dismantled. I ask the young lady about anywhere to post the cards. She very kindly offers to take them herself. Rudy pulls out a 10 pound note and the security guard chuckles. It’s a pre Euro pound note. Virtually useless. Since Brexit they’ve made new ones. However, we’re told, the bank might take them. Rudy gives her $5 US (still the best form of cash) and the pound note. It’s a win win.

Then we see the line for the return tender. We look knowingly at each other and think we’ve timed our return the same as the others. We laugh it off until the dark clouds start to amass. Just before a downpour we are back to the ship. I really believe that tendering is not the best idea for the passengers on this ship. Insurance must not be an issue. Back on board we have to pass through security (I can see how this group might be a huge risk! Ha ha!). Unfortunately the conveyer belt carrying bags through the X-ray stops for some reason. Bags then are checked by hand. I’m sure the security staff came across some embarrassing bulky items.

Tomorrow we land in France!

Falmouth from our balcony
The other way
Low tide muddy boats
British warship in the harbour
Waterside pub
Aboard the Orca Express
Leaving the harbour
Warship up close – it’s huge!
Beautiful coastal homes
Back side of the war ship (that’s David – Karen is in front of me)
Our ship anchored
St Mawes Castle
Pendennis Castle (the bigger of the two)
Coastal scene (no significance, I just liked it)
The original lighthouse now an inn
Super quaint
What can I say?
Our vessel
Back at the pub – dog biscuits just to the right off camera
I’m getting the hint.
The welcome sign
Different tender back. She may be a duchess, but she’s not a queen!
A whale of a ride. But no actual whales.

Cobh Ireland 🇮🇪

Today we pulled into the Cork Harbour in Ireland. The initial approach was through dense fog and it appeared to have rained during the night as the deck was wet. The ship cruised through the “pea soup” as Rudy described it and then the sun came through as we neared land. There are several small islands in the harbour, but the water itself around the islands is vast. One of the world’s largest and the last stop of the Titanic as well as a British navy stronghold in the day; it could hold up to 400 ships.

On the final approach to land at Cobh (pronounced Cove) you can see the colourful buildings that are a lovely attraction as well as the spire of the cathedral. Cobh is a stones throw from Cork (20 min by train).

All passengers are required to clear Irish customs whether they are leaving the ship or not. This tedious (and in my view entirely lame and a concoction of needy government workers) process lasted from 8:30 am to 10:30 am. Ho hum. They stamped our passports as a matter of routine. As soon as that’s done we disembark.

Right at the cruise dock there is the train station and a short walkway to the Main Street. We have a tour booked for noon so we have time to cruise the shopping area. Rudy is looking for a few things and we know (from Googling) that we will find what we need. In addition I find a souvenir shop and pick up a couple of postcards to mail (the post office is right there, too) and of course we find a pub. Not a hard thing to do! As we sip our beers I write out the postcards and then we mail them heading back to the dock where our tour group is meeting. On the way back we pass buskers and the Titanic museum and lots of people as the sun is full on shining and warm. A perfect day. We were prepared for cool rainy weather but it was a great alternative.

We see the cruise line rep holding the sign for our tour to Spike Island and we join the gathering. The guests were asked to meet at 12:15 pm. But there were stragglers and we are told the boat to the island is scheduled for 1 pm. It was a bit of a boondoggle and a gentle reminder why we book our own things. The tours were included in our fare, but it won’t happen again. We have little patience for incompetence and waiting around.

The tour leaves from a dock in town that we passed by twice. Then we realized we could have booked the same excursion on our own. Oh well. It’s a lovely ride out to the island and we take the scenic route as the tide is way out. You can actually see the markings of high tide on the docks and sea walls. The views as we pull away from shore are really superb.

When we dock at Spike Island, our tour guide Paul, explains that there is a fairly strenuous hike to the fortress/prison and since it’s quite warm we are cautioned to hydrate. There’s about 20 people in our group and some of the ladies are wearing dressy clothes and shoes. Not exactly hiking gear! There’s a paved road leading from the dock up to the fortress and we can see it’s a way up. Paul the guide stops intermittently to tell us things about the history. It’s very interesting.

Firstly, all of the signs are written in English and Celtic. Celtic is actually the native language but since the British ruled Ireland for several hundred years, English became the norm. However Celtic is taught in schools and is used by some. There’s definitely a fierce Irish pride and disdain for the British. Ireland was liberated but the Cork harbour (a strategic military base) was not included along with two other Irish harbours. However, the Irish government convinced Britain to release the harbours in 1938. This was a key step in allowing Ireland to remain neutral during WWII. The Republic of Ireland refused join Britain in the war.

Spike Island with its military advantage was used as a Fort. However, with Britain controlling the entire area, they deemed it more appropriate to use as a prison and so it housed those who rebelled against British rule and were arrested. There were some 4000 prisoners at one time. Then Britain felt threatened by Napoleon and it was decided that the prison be turned into a fortress. A military engineer designed the fortress and the prisoners were used as labourers. Since muskets were used in battle, provisions were made to accommodate them. The prisoners were worked to death and most of them died during the several decades it took to build the fort. Of course, as history would show, there would never be an attack on it.

On the winding road to the top, Paul stops to tell us about the

When Ireland was liberated and the British military removed, the Fort remained empty. However, unrest with Northern Ireland created a need for a young offender prison (the youth were initially jailed with the adults and were corrupted by them!) and it was decided to turn the Fort into a prison once again. About 120 youth offenders were imprisoned there but in 1985 a riot erupted where the prisoners set buildings on fire and laid siege to the tower. The guards retreated and called for help. The event became nationally televised and ended when one of the prisoners mom came on the scene and her son surrendered followed by his comrades.

Now the Fort/prison is a 120 acre historic site. It’s amazing to see the work of the prisoners and the fortress they created. Now it’s a shell and the burnt buildings are a giant pigeon coop. The grounds are lovely and well kept. Definitely worth the visit.

Back on board our cruise ship, the sky suddenly turns gray and then the rain starts in buckets. We missed it by an inch!!

Entering Cork Harbour
Approaching Cobh
Getting closer
And closer
And closer
The ship is turned around for docking
The turn is complete (fog in the distance)
We’ve arrived! Sunshine ☀️
Cunard Steamship Co
Last port of the Titanic
The smaller church
The tide is out
When in Cobh…
… slainte
Another round please!
Lush gardens
For my dad 🇩🇪
Heading to Spike Island
Our ship in behind
View of Cobh from Spike Island
The burned out barracks
Southern bay view from top of Fort Mitchel
Pano view
Perimeter path
Jail cells
Youth Prison block
Gates to freedom – ship in the background
Old military cottages
“Indiana Jones” house
Pathway back to dock
The flora was divine
Cobh

Praia de Vitoria – Azores Portugal 🇵🇹

Once our ship was docked and cleared by Portuguese authorities, the gangplanks on the lowest deck opened. There were at least 18 coaches lined up to take passengers on shore excursions or shuttle into town. We enjoyed a hearty breakfast before making our way (after the herds as Rudy would say) down to disembark and board a shuttle.

The 5 minute shuttle took us into an area near the town square where we were able to walk around. On the way we saw cows scattered randomly seemingly everywhere along with lush vegetation and palm trees. We got off the shuttle and noticed most people went right, so we went left. The narrow streets were quiet for a Saturday morning. But every now and then you could see movement and activity. Especially in the park we passed where children and their parents were enjoying the increasing sunny day. Around the bend from the park is the busier seaside area.

We could see signs of tourists from the ship the closer we got. On one side of the street was a marina full of boats (mostly sail boats) and fishing boats followed by beaches and docks as you looked ahead. On the other side was cafes and restaurants with outdoor seating starting to fill up. We decided to stop for a local beer. The barkeep spoke English and was very pleasant (once he realized we weren’t there to use the toilets!) There were a few locals in team (soccer) jerseys having coffees and chatting animatedly. The sun was now almost full on and it was getting nice and warm.

We continued our walk up the hill through the main tourist / business area. The street was pedestrian only making it easy to wander from side to side and check out the shops. We spotted a market where the fish mongers were busy gutting the catch of the day. There were also produce stalls and handmade items. The stores were a variety of touristy things and regular stores including a pharmacy.

The shuttle took us back to the ship where we put on our bike shorts and filled our knapsack with essential supplies for our afternoon e-bike tour. I didn’t see any ship tours that met our needs so I booked us on a Viator tour with a local guide. I figured after 6 days at sea that we would not want to spend a day on a bus!

Our tour time was 2 pm and the guide, Jaime, contacted us by What’s App to let us know he’d be at the ships dock. Right on time, he let us know that the white van was his and there would be 4 of us on the tour plus him. His assistant was getting the bikes and helmets ready. We walked over and the other two arrived. The bikes were KLM e-bikes and super easy to operate. Within a few minutes we were en route. Jaime was a gem!

Jaime started the tour company 5 years ago. He’s doing well and bought the slick bikes a year ago. It’s clear that he is passionate about his business as he navigates us through the exit of the port and onto the beach trail. Part boardwalk and part stone pathway, it leads into the area where we had a beer earlier. Along the way he tells us historical facts like the wars between the Portuguese and the Spanish as well as the civil war of 1892. There are 9 islands that comprise the Azores and three are larger and inhabited (the population of Terciera is 54K). There is a military presence, both Portuguese and US. The random cows are actually the biggest industry of the island and supply meat, cheese and milk to the mainland. The islands are volcanic and so the sand is darker; the islands are known as the Hawaii of Europe. It’s a 2ish hour flight to the mainland.

At one point Jaime tells us we will bike up the hill where the monument of St Mary guards over and protects the city. It’s about 1500 feet up. Hence the e-bikes. We are instructed to gear up to “turbo” mode. And up we go. Past more cows and really interesting flora. In fact, there’s a ton of bushes all green which we are told will bloom later. Hydrangeas!! The soil acidity will create blue blooms that are amazingly vibrant. At the top we arrive at Mary’s monument and a tour bus pulls in. I see a few people checking out our bikes which we have parked to take in the full splendour of the view. It’s breathtaking.

In the way down we are cautioned to use gentle application of the brakes. It’s a steep winding road. With cars and buses!! We make it back to the ship and can’t wipe the grins from our faces. What a great tour. I can’t recommend it enough.

Back on board we ditch our sweaty bike duds and head back up to the Crows Nest for a cold beer. It’s the perfect perch to take in the ship’s navigation of the exit from the harbour.

Good bye Azores. It’s been a slice!

Quaint hotel in town
Typical garden home
Town park area
St Mary monument from the town level (those are stairs that people can climb!)
Marina view with our ship in behind
Cheers!
Stone seaway walk
Pedestrian shopping way
Typical side street
Boardwalk
Ship in the background
In front of St Mary with Jaime
View from the top
Town and marina from the top
Lovebirds
Another view

The Crow’s Nest: the Azores Portugal

After 6 relaxing days at sea, crossing the Atlantic Ocean, we are arriving in Portugal. Ships time is 7:18 am (which is 3:18 am in Ontario). Hard to believe I’m even up at this time! I left Rudy in bed and he likely thinks I’m sleep walking.

The Captain, a young lanky fellow, makes announcements every morning letting us know what the sea conditions are. But right now he’s all hands on deck as he moves the behemoth Zuiderdam into a sheltered harbour. We have arrived at Praia de Vitoria, Terciera, Azores Portugal.

The Birds Eye front and centre view is from the Crows Nest on the ship. It’s located on the tenth floor and has full, unobstructed views of the bow of the ship and beyond. Inside the room are a selection of seating including comfortable leather recliners, sectionals, occasional chairs and plenty of tables for board games, puzzles and whatever suits your mood. There’s books, games, coffee, bar drinks and other libations and snacks available. I’m sipping on an Americano (freshly brewed by the friendly baristas) with a sprinkle of cinnamon.

The ship has manoeuvred into a harbour adjacent to a quaint town (which we will explore later on bikes – a tour we arranged through Viator). After slowly pulling into the bay which is protected by a huge cement break wall, we are now backing up to pull into the dock. Parallel parking is daunting any day, but in this mammoth sea beast I can’t fathom it. We are moving painstakingly slowly at the moment. The level of patience in this process is beyond my ability!!

The weather is mostly overcast with small glimpses of blue sky peeking through. The temperature is 62 F. This is an abrupt change from the sunny warm conditions we experienced in the crossing. Hopefully as the day progresses we will see better conditions. Nonetheless, we have arrived. And it’s rather nice to see land. Although we did get a look at some whales yesterday. Apparently it’s mating season; lucky us.

It’s a marvel to watch the landing first hand along with (surprisingly) a lot of others. Some are outside getting the full immersive experience. I draw the line.

Stay tuned for regular updates as we make our way to our final destination in Amsterdam.

Rudy snoozing on a sectional.
Starboard view from deck 10 outside.
Approaching the mouth of the bay.
Pilot boats are guiding us in.
The approach.
Almost in the bay.
A trawler passes in front as we start to turn around.
Making the rotation.
Crows Nest seating area
The coffee and libation station