When I moved to Toronto as a teenager, going to the Eaton Centre was a priority. I attended college in Willowdale (Don Mills and Finch) but I was drawn like a magnet to downtown. In my uber excitement of finding a store called Simpsons which was hiring, it never occurred to me that I was looking at a 90 min commute on the TTC. That’s the public transit system in Toronto (and to this day is inadequate) which for me was a 30 to 40 minute subway followed by a 40 to 50 minute bus ride.

I will never forget finding my way to the HR department of Simpson’s and them telling me on the spot that they had openings in ladies wear on the 6th floor. It was a huge area of ladies clothing and I was going to be a floor clerk. My new boss, Betty, a wonderful woman who took great passion in her work, showed me around. There were 7 of us in the department. 2 in the fitting rooms and there were 2 at least on the floor at any time. There was no Sunday shopping then.

Simpsons was a great store and I loved many aspects of it. In 1984 or 1985, Simpsons became The Bay (short for the Hudson’s Bay Company) and I was done college. A few of my colleagues from Ladies Wear were let go. Betty took an early retirement. The Bay was less formal and reduced the personal shopping experience to more”self help”. No more staff to assist you on the floor or in the fitting rooms.

Although it was a blow, it didn’t seem too bad a first. The Bay, after all, was one of Canada’s original trading posts back in the day. It had survived a lot over the years.

One things for sure, The Bay in downtown Toronto was an iconic landmark and one of the last to convert from Simpsons. The Arcadian Court hosted many dignitaries and posh clients while the seasonal decor (especially Christmas) was a sight to behold. No road trip to Toronto was complete without an excursion to The Bay.

Today I read that The Bay was seeking bankruptcy protection. They will likely close all 80 stores. I’m so sad to hear this news. And I hope there’s something of this legacy to salvage.

For the past few weeks we have been inundated with trade wars amongst our close ally and trading partner, namely, the 🇺🇸 USA. There’s been a surge of buy local and other “team Canada” rhetoric. It makes me chuckle to think of the Starbucks franchisee that has to spin it somehow. Is a Starbucks considered Canadian if the franchisee is? It is a pretty messy request to “buy Canadian” given the very blurry lines of commerce and trade.

Which brings me to The Bay. Team (economic) Canada couldn’t save it?! I read with such dismay, some of the online comments. Some speculating on the reasons for the failure of the business:

• The managers were too greedy
• The pricing was high (compared to Walmart)
• No one shops in person anymore

There were plenty of others but I was stunned. The Team Canada folk are apparently fickle. They would rather support Amazon or Walmart for price and convenience. Isn’t it worth a higher price and inconvenient location to support Canada 🇨🇦?? I guess not.

I will forever have fond memories of The Bay and the people I worked with over the years and 3 different locations.

So long, old friend.

Our final day of the trip is spent in Paris. First we get breakfast in the hotel (which by the way is gorgeous!) if we can make it there …. What a line up!

The hotel is very modern (fits in well with an area of Paris that is totally different from the rest) and the technology employed in every department is very interesting. For example, at the elevator bank you tap your room key in the panel and it tells you what elevator (A through H) to get on. There are no floor buttons on the elevator so you get to stop only at your room. Sorry kids!! There’s a robot in the restaurant to collect dirty dishes. Lights in your room come on once you insert your room key into the light slot. When you leave and take your key all lights turn off. There are no dials in the shower; it’s a push button select for either the rainfall ceiling head or the wand. There is an iPad in the room which controls everything and provides hotel info as well as tourist info, menus and translation.

We are on the 20th floor and can see the Sacre Coeur from our window (when the fog lifts)

Rudy gets a quick bite and in no time we are back on the bus for a panoramic city tour with a guide. Our guide, Magnus, is from Sweden. His English is good, but I find it a bit odd that a foreigner is the guide. Once he gets going it’s interesting information because he includes tidbits like how to order a coffee. That may sound simple enough but what you think you order and what you get are often very different. He also reviewed how not to annoy the service staff in coffee shops: order and change your mind, order takeout but eat in, don’t say “bonjour”, invite your friends to use the toilets (which are pay facilities unless you’re in a restaurant) .. I think he was speaking from experience.

Paris is an amazing city and we certainly only scratched the surface. Rudy’s not an art guy, so we skipped the Louvre again. But here’s what our tour covered:

The bus returns us to the hotel and we do a quick stop to gather ourselves. I’ve booked us on a private walking tour of the St Germaine and Latin Quarter areas for the afternoon. There’s a company which connects local guides with tourists. They have the ability to customize itineraries and group sizes.

I’ve booked us with Welly. A young (33) hipster who lives in Paris. In fact, he tells us that he completed high school near our hotel. His English is impeccable since he did a year of school in the USA. We was studying accounting when he realized it was not for him and he took up touring people 4 years ago.

We have arranged to meet him at our hotel and we head off promptly and make our way to the subway. He shows us how to purchase tickets and navigate the system. We are only going three stops, but it’s fascinating to see how the system works. Especially since we are only familiar with the Toronto system which is, in comparison, a very small operation.

Once off the subway we head into the fresh air of St Germaine. It’s the area where artists and writers used to congregate and hole up at the plentiful cafes. On line they are memorialized as artsy hangouts from yesteryear, but Welly let’s us know they are now mostly tourist traps.

And with that we end our tour … so long Paris. Until we meet again 🇫🇷💗

First thing in the morning we, along with our luggage, are hustled off the ship onto the bus. Our day will end in Paris with a couple of stops en route.

First stop is just across the border in Luxembourg. At the American Cemetery commemorating the Battle of the Bulge (so named because of the area on the map). Here lies the general responsible for the troops in battle: General Patton. There’s nothing more sobering than seeing the graves of the brave young (mostly) men who made the ultimate sacrifice to protect our freedoms.

From Luxembourg we continue into France 🇫🇷 where we take a break in Reims. It’s the unofficial champagne capital and the site of the second oldest Roman historical sites outside of Rome itself.

The large cathedral in town is the oldest church in France and is where prominent historical figures were crowned king.

See you in Paris!

Our day started with a scenic cruise along the Middle Rhine. There were amazing sites to see on both sides of the ship, but we stayed in our (warm) cabin and were awed.

Lorelei Rock can be seen in the above photos; one on approach (right) and one as we pass (left). It’s a massive jagged rock that juts into the river at a narrow point. Many perished there.

Koblenz is the city where the Rhine and Moselle Rivers intersect. There is a river meeting point called the German Corner.

The imposing statute of Kaiser Wilhelm stands at the corner.

The German corner is also a place where they pay homage to significant events. There is an American flag that was raised in solidarity after 9/11 and these three panels are parts of the Berlin Wall.

Arch bishops were in charge in medieval times and therefore cathedrals are prominent on our tour. However, we learn that Martin Luther brought about changes and the Protestant religion was formed. Cathedrals are opulent and flashy where their Protestant counterparts are more simple and humble.

During the war French soldiers met with German girls and the children born were called “Schangels”. These children were not readily accepted and were teased so they acted out. Koblenz adopted the “Schangle” as their city mascot and manholes in town bear his image. There is also a fountain in the town and Schangel spits water in the warm months.

Later, back on the ship, we are invited to a taste of Germany dinner.

Later that evening we head out for a special tour in Winnigen. It’s a small hamlet known for its wine making.

The legend of the wine witch is told that a woman who was using local herbs to heal was declared a witch and imprisoned. However when the towns mayor became deathly ill and could not be healed, he summoned the witch from prison. She cured him! The wine witch is now celebrated at the annual wine festival. The largest in the region.

We strolled to the town church for an organ recital.

Fair warning: our next day in Cochem was a write off for me. I became violently ill in the night. As it turns out, so did others. I guess the taste of Germany did not agree with me. Luckily my private nurse, Rudy, was very attentive 💗

See you in Trier!

Today we were docked in Mainz. We looked outside and it was drizzly and chilly, so we made an (easy) executive decision to skip the morning city tour. Having done a minimum of 10K steps each day, we decided on a leisurely self guided morning.

We ventured to the lounge terrace area indoors and enjoyed a lovely breakfast. There were only four of us and so it seemed we were on a private yacht. Coffee, juice, fresh buns with cold cuts and cheese, fruit, pastries and a selection of yogurt and oatmeal as well as other cereals. If we wanted there was also eggs made to order or pancakes. The drizzle stopped, but the temperature was cold and the skies overcast.

At 10:30 we left the ship and wandered into town. As is typical, there is an Aldstatt (old town) with a central cathedral. We passed a casino and a shopping mall.

In the town is the Gutenberg museum showing the history of the printing press and written communication through the years. It opens at noon so we keep walking. In the town centre is a Christmas Market; it was just opening up.

After a while (and about 5K steps) we head back to the ship. Just in time to miss the wet snow that starts to fall.

Back on board we relax for a while and then I take in a Christmas cookie workshop with Chef Bobby. He’s Bulgarian so I’m guessing his actual name is something difficult to pronounce. Chef is showing us coconut macaroons and vanille kipferl.

Rudy finds it amusing that I would like to take a cooking class 🤣.

At 6:30 pm we listen to the cruise director, Simon, talk about the next days events. We will be cruising through the Middle Rhein where castles, fairy tales and folklore abound.

Then its time for dinner and we join two other couples for a traditional German tasting menu.

See you tomorrow!

Today was a double header. We started out docking in Germersheim Germany and took a short bus ride to Speyer. This quaint, ancient town is nestled between rolling hills and vineyards. We are in the Rhineland region famous for wine production dating back centuries.

Walking from the parking area adjacent to the cathedral, we pass through a pretty park area with green space and historical monuments.

The cathedral building process was started in 900 ad and completed in 1030 or so. It was destroyed and rebuilt and refurbished many times over the centuries. It’s an imposing Romanesque structure that is quite simple and stark compared to the gothic style. There’s a lengthy and interesting history around the museum from the early years where kingdoms changed hands based on victories in war and marriage contracts.

The front of the cathedral boasts a massive courtyard and the beautiful round window is the centrepiece.

Speyer is the origin of the pretzel. I found this tale so interesting. The bishop of yore tasked the local baker with making bread that he could look through and see the sky. The baker formed the dough in the shape of arms parting and voila! The pretzel was created. It’s prominence is carved in stone on the cathedral’s facade. You see the bishop holding a pretzel as you enter the building.

The bishops residence is located across the courtyard and today is a lovely yellow house.

Another interesting fact about this ancient town is that it is on the spiritual El Camino trail. Pilgrims walking the trail would notice the shell symbol on the ground in the courtyard and know they were on the right path. There’s even a monument in town depicting a barefooted pilgrim on his mystical journey. Folklore suggests that anyone touching the pilgrims feet will have a safe journey.

I’m with Rudy so the blessing passes on to me as well!

Behind the cathedral we meander over a bridge and through small alleys and streets. It’s fascinating to imagine medieval lifestyles as we enjoy the beauty of the architecture and the festive decor.

There’s another very interesting (and timely) tale in Speyer. A cartoon artist, Thomas Nast, who immigrated to the US (and drew for the Civil War) us from this quaint town. He gave us the image of Santa 🎅🏼 that we know today. The jolly St Nikolaus!

We emerge from the old town into the Main Street which is adorned with shops, eateries, pretzel booths and of course a market. Along the street are live spruce trees decked out by local school children. It’s an annual tradition.

The Main Street area leads up the original city gate which is an imposing tower.

We return to the ship and immediately sail on for Mannheim.

I phone my folks to update them and find out this region was among their favourites for venturing out on my dad’s motorcycle! He told me about their adventures and how they swam in the Neckar River!

In Mannheim the sun is setting as we dock and we are transported to the city centre where a lively Christmas market is waiting for us at the city’s water tower.

After leaving the market (and having enjoyed the delicious experience) we venture across the road and warm up with a coffee and a little something extra.

Back on the ship we continue the festive spirit….

See you tomorrow….

Today we woke up in Kehl, Germany. It’s a drizzly, grey day and it looks cold! We gather our gear and head out for the 15 min walk to the buses waiting to take us into Strasbourg, France. Our tour guide on the bus introduces herself and then does a countdown from 10 as we cross the Rhine and just like that we are across the border into France. Strasbourg has actually bounced between being French and German for years during the 1900’s. But now it’s France and people speak French or German (and of course English).

The bus drops us at a bridge leading into Petite France. It’s part of the old town that was known for where men with syphillis would be kept in history. Now it’s quaint and definitely festive!

As we walk along the cobbled streets, the rain peters out. The markets don’t open until 11:30 am so the only people around are tourists (and there’s a lot of those) and delivery drivers. How they manage on the narrow passages is amazing to observe.

When we enter the cathedral we are amazed at the size. The sheer magnitude of intricate detail is astounding.

Once the tallest building, it’s size is still formidable. Notre Dame is a masterpiece of gothic architecture and services are still held every week.

Inside is also the Astronomical Clock. It’s a work of art, science, math and physics. We were able to see the clock in action.

In addition to the clock. Another highlight is the stained glass. There’s a very interesting history as Hitler ordered the glass removed. George Clooney made a movie about how the glass (and many other precious artifacts) were rescued after the war. Monuments Men also stars Matt Damon and thanks to the efforts of the men in real life, the glass was returned to its rightful place. Since Strasbourg has been both a German and French city, it was spared destruction during the war.

See you tomorrow in Speyer!

Today we left Zürich by bus en route to Basel; the third largest city in Switzerland. It is located at the mouth of the Rhine and borders France and Germany. It’s a bustling university town (the Pope gave his blessing to open the university several hundred years ago!).

As you enter the city, you see several examples of the architectural styles of the famous Herzog and de Meuron. The old part of the city was (as we are now knowing as typical) once surrounded by a wall and a moat. Fortifications were common in medieval times but modern city expansions have resulted in some destruction of such structures. In Basel, the moat has been filled with long narrow parks. When you drive along side the former moats, the streets are called “grabbe” rather than Strasse.

Part of the medieval fortifications included city gates as in this photo. Lucky us, we arrive on a Monday morning and catch the trash collectors busy at work. There are real spruce trees everywhere and lots of lights which would be visible in the late afternoon in the dark.

Christmas markets are everywhere in town. Where there’s a square or public space you will find either a market with colourful stalls or a festive display of trees and decorations. It’s truly a magical and festive experience.

From Basel we are transported to our ship (home for the next several days). It’s our first Viking tour. The bus brings us to the dock and we enter the ship Herja. We are escorted to our cabin and are greeted by a huge bouquet of flowers. Thank you Gill!

The cabin (308) is a two room suite with a full bathroom. There’s a tv in both the sitting area and bedroom; tv offers tons of movies and other shows. There’s a balcony (but it’s cold out) and desk area.

As the ships sails to Kehl, we have to pass several lochs.

See you in Strasbourg!

Today we spent the day in Zurich. Our Viking tour has officially started. Breakfast is served in the hotel. I’m reminded of my mom as there is an assortment of eggs, cold cuts, cheese, pickles!, and pretzels. It’s early: 7:30 am and we are meeting our tour at 8:20. The Viking rep hands out listening devices which we keep until the end of the trip.

The tour starts with a boat cruise on Lake Zürich. It’s a sunny but chilly day. We are hopeful to see the mountains, but much like the Rockies, conditions have to be ideal. So far the misty fog lingers up high. The boat cruise is approximately 1 hour. We sit at a table with a couple from Georgia.

After the cruise, we start a walking tour of the medieval section of Zürich with our guide. She’s from Taiwan, but married a Swiss and speaks several languages. Her English is excellent.

We make our way back down. The pole with steps is for cats!! they can climb out the apartment window and roam the streets 💗

A few more interesting tidbits from the tour: Zürich university is where Albert Einstein studied. There are over 20 Nobel prize winners from the university. You take your undergrad degree in German, but if you pursue a Masters or Doctorate it’s in English.

Charlemagne built a church for his two daughters.

There’s a women’s only swimming area on the Rhine. It includes a change house with washrooms, a sun deck and access to the water. Tops are optional so interested people can observe from the other bank of the river.

Zürich has 26 Kantons (districts). Each has its own government so laws vary in each one. Voting is held often to decide on various issues. If you can get 100K signatures in favour of something, it will be voted on.

The transit system is on the honour basis. There are machines everywhere to purchase tickets. Machines will allow you to choose a language. Then you purchase a ticket. From time to time a transit agent will ask to see your ticket.

There are no homeless. They are taken to a shelter or hospital for treatment.

There are thousands of secret bunkers in the country in case of nuclear war. In the event of an invasion, there are explosives buried around the perimeter of the country that will implode as needed making entry by land impossible.

Crime is virtually non-existent.

After the walking tour, we return to the hotel to freshen up (Rudy needs a nap). Later in the afternoon we take the tram to the main train station where there is a Christmas market and the main shopping street. Bahnhof Strasse is jam packed with shoppers taking advantage of the Sunday sales (normally Sunday is sacred; you can’t even make any noise!). Smoking is available anywhere outdoors and there are ashtrays everywhere. And tons of dogs! If you have a dog you can buy an annual transit pass for them. 💗

Everyone is respectful and helpful. And they all speak English.

We return to the hotel for an early night as 6:30 am is around the corner!

See you tomorrow … 🍻

We left on November 28 and arrived in Zürich in the early evening Nov 29. The flights were on time and smooth, but we had to spend a few hours in London Gatwick in between flights. It wasn’t enough time to do any sightseeing and too much time to hang out. I was able to book lounge access for 3 hours prior to flight which was very civilized and I highly recommend it. The day was super sunny. Once you clear security, en route to the lounge, you pass through an incredible mall. You name it and they have it. Including Marks and Spencer’s (who I miss in Canada!).

Upon arrival in Zürich we were picked up by a transfer to take us to our hotel: Renaissance Tower Zürich

It’s located in the gentrified techno district near the Hardbrüke Train Station. Before we head to the room, we take a quick break in the lounge.

Shortly after our happy hour, we hit the hay. Our room is a spacious and comfortable king bedroom with an oversized bathroom. Simple and elegant.

The following morning we arranged to meet my cousin in a nearby German town called Konstance. She provided us with instructions for taking the train. The weather was full, gray and chilly. We walked to the train station and hopped on; we had to change trains in Winterthur which is a quaint town. Then we were caught by surprise: the station in Konstance was having technical problems and we couldn’t reach it. Instead we had to disembark in Kreutzlingen (the last stop in Switzerland). What we didn’t realize is that the two towns are connected. When the train representative told us to walk to Konstance we were a bit confused. But I messaged my cousin and told her (she already knew as they were meeting us at the station!); we set a meeting place and walked. We met in a local mall called Lago and on the top floor is a very cool outdoor patio; we have a coffee and laugh about the train. Nothing like an unexpected adventure to start the day.

After our quick coffees we venture out to visit the medieval city. Along the way, my cousin and her husband tell us local history. The most fascinating part is that Konstance was spared bombing during the war because of its proximity to neutral Switzerland. They kept their lights on at night so the bombers thought they were Swiss. So fortunately the old buildings remained intact!

What you don’t see in the picture in front of the church is a small glass structure that encloses an ancient wall from Roman times (400 ad); the wall was discovered as they were excavating around the church. Of course the renovations stopped and the ancient wall was enshrined.

Buildings from the medieval times date back centuries and often have the year of build indicated on them. Some have signs of animals which was a way in those days of identifying them.

After the medieval section of the city, we venture to the Christmas Market. While there we enjoy the mandatory sausage (I had my very favourite Weiß wurst with Senf which is mustard) and then Glühwein which is a spicy mulled hot wine. The market is huge and packed full of people.

My cousin explained that Switzerland is super pricey compared to Germany so Swiss people flock to Konstance for the bargains. She said she had never seen it so busy!

The market is adjacent to the pier where my cousin shows us the famous sculpture of a prostitute holding up her hands. In one hand sits the pope and in the other the king. The prostitution is dressed in working garb and has huge boobs! Very scandalous.

Our day ends in Radolfzell where my cousin lives and we enjoy a Raclette supper with her teenage kids.

She drives us back to the train station where we hop on and head back to Zürich. It’s an hour away. We are glad to hit the sack when we arrive at 9:30 pm.